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CITY GUIDE

Antananarivo, Madagascar – A City Trapped Between Worlds

  • November 3, 2021
  • No Comments
  • Nadira Adam
Antananarivo
Antananarivo

Antananarivo, Madagascar

Antananarivo is the capital city of Madagascar, in the island’s Central Highlands. It is rumored  that the island of Madagascar is a remnant of the lost city of Atlantis.

Could this be true?  Its identity steeped in myth and legend, this land of lemurs and baobab trees and fourth largest island in the world is still so obscure to the world.

Measuring 2% of the landmass of the African continent, this 587 000 sq km Island lies off the south-eastern coast of Africa and to this day remains a fascination to scientists across the world due to its vast natural anomalies.  From crystalline bedrocks to what may be dormant volcanoes (there is currently an ongoing investigation into what lies beneath the island), Madagascar has a wealth of fauna, flora and unique tourist experiences to offer.

The island’s history further intrigues the mind for not much is known for certain about its first inhabitants.

There is much speculation as to who the first settlers were.  Was it the Arabs since their typically circular graves are found amidst the lush vegetation on the north-eastern parts similar to those found on the other islands in the Indian Ocean dating back to the 15th century?  Or perhaps the Austronesian people from the Philippines, Java, Sumatra or thereabout?

Whoever it was, has left behind many mythical legends and tales and today, there are around eighteen ethnic groups from where hundreds of clans have stemmed, each speaking their own dialect of Malagasy.

Antananarivo The City

Antananarivo

Antananarivo is the capital city of Madagascar, in the island’s Central Highlands. The Rova of Antananarivo palace complex was the center of the Merina kingdom from the 17th century.

Trapped between which worlds you ask?  Well Let’s read on and  find out together!

Also known as ‘Tana’ by the locals, is the capital of Madagascar.

My first impression of the Tana was of a bustling South American city.  A mixture of old and new where medieval-styled houses met with modern office buildings, a sure sign that Tana was the business capital as well.

The streets are always filled with people, mostly poverty stricken rural people who have come to the city to chance their luck at a better life, only to end up sleeping on the streets.

The cacophony of sounds everywhere coming from the market stalls and hooting of cars and taxis became the norm for me after a day or two and left me feeling excited and invigorated to explore the city and get to know its warm and friendly people.

Exploring Antananarivo

Antananarivo

The Presidential Residence

This residence on Lalana Titsy is engulfed in a park-like setting around the lake and surrounded by flowers and trees, not forgetting the soldiers guarding the residence.  Be careful not to take any pictures as this is strictly forbidden and if caught, who knows what might happen.  Since I am able to write this article from the comfort of my home, it is safe to say that I didn’t take any chances on this trip.  In order to visit the residence, a permit will have to be obtained and this can easily be done through either the local tourism office or a local travel agent.

The Royal Hill Of Ambohimanga

This hill is also known as the ‘Blue Hill’, and it represents the Malagasy culture and history dating back to the 16th century.  It lies at the top of one of the twelve sacred hills of Imerina or Kingdom of Madagascar and dates back to the 15th century during the rule of Madagascar’s first king Andriantsimitoviaminandriana (I know what you’re thinking right now.  Try rattling off this name ;)).  I loved standing here just looking out at the city and watching the daily rush of life passing by.

Rova Palace

Also at the top of the hill lies Rova Palace built for the Queen Rasoherina during her reign from 1863-1868.  There were, in fact, actually five palaces built on the grounds of Rova.  The palace remains closed on Monday’s but open to visitors on all other days.  Best to check for the timings as this may have changed in recent times.  Again, prior arrangements must be made with the curator at least 24-hours in advance if you would like to take photographs.

The Zoma (Friday) Market

Located in front of the train station is the largest street market in the world!  The buzz and vibe of the market is enough to give you an adrenaline rush and fill you with enough excitement and energy to navigate your way through the maze of stalls engulfed by a sea of white umbrellas and, for the tiresome feat of bargaining.  Here you can buy anything from a range of fake handbags, clothes and pirated music, to stunning locally handcrafted items.  Take note of pickpockets and don’t assume that anything branded is original.  It certainly is not.

Now when it comes to visiting different cities, I am partial to steering clear from any zoological and botanical gardens.  Let’s face it, who actually goes to visit a zoo when travelling abroad unless you have a vested interest in the field or the city has nothing better to offer by way of attractions? In this case, I must emphasise that a visit to the Parc Botanique Et Zoologique De Tsimbazaza, is definitely worth spending the time.  

Parc Botanique Et Zoologique De Tsimbazaza

You see, Madagascar, in my opinion, is the Amazon of Africa.  It has a plethora of fauna and flora and not to mention the most unique species of life form and the Parc is one of the best places to see most of these in one place.  Unfortunately, as the days pass, approximately 20 of these life forms are rendered extinct on a daily basis since they are never recorded; they are lost in time forever.

Restaurants and bars  in Tana.

  • Madagascar Underground

This is a relaxed atmosphere where you can find the most excellent local crafted beers.  The Mexican menu is just as delicious.  Be sure to try the tacos and of course, their two-for-one margaritas is simply the best or so I’m told.

  • Le Glacier

Situated on Independence Avenue is the place where the tourists come together.  The establishment is renowned not only for its great menu, cocktails and beer, but also its music, inviting local and emerging talents alike.

Now I do consider myself relatively adventurous when it comes to trying new foods, but in Tana, I was quite skeptical when I heard that one of the delicacies was spiders.  Yup, those eight-legged creepy, terribly frightful creatures that have me screaming and running for miles on end.  As far as I know, one way to have them is deep fried.  I won’t risk the chance of searching Google for fear of having a mild (or even fatal) heart attack when they pop up on my screen.

  • Marais Restaurant

If it’s a fine dining experience you’re after, the best place would be Marais Restaurant on the 5th floor of the Atrium building.  Although expensive, the international and fusion cuisine is superb and both artistically and aesthetically appealing.  Be prepared to fork out for this chic dining experience.

  • Saka Express

This restaurant at the Sakamanga Hotel in the city centre, on the other hand, is a fast food delight where you can find burgers, pizza and vegetarian options at very affordable prices.  The Saka Restaurant on the same premises specialises in French and Malagasy cuisine (and no creepy crawlies on this menu).

Antananarivo Hotels, Spas and Cinema

  • Le Louvre Hotel & Spa

When it comes to laying down your head for the night, the city now has a much better standard of hotels to choose from.  One such is the four star Le Louvre Hotel & Spa located in Jardin Antaninarenina.  Modern and simplistic décor enhances the stylish zen-like feeling you get when walking through its doors.  It immediately exudes calm and serenity.

  • Hotel Colbert Spa & Casino

My absolute favorite though, is the Hotel Colbert Spa & Casino on 29 Rue Prince Ratsimamanga, a four star hotel that could very easily be ranked among that of a five.  Set in typical French style; indulge yourself in a bit of luxury in a city that is easily mistaken for only poverty.  The Balnéoforme Spa will quickly ease away your aches and pains from the day’s walking and leave you refreshed and ready to tackle the next day’s adventure.

  • Cinepax

The city of Tana does not have a whole lot to offer by way of theatrical entertainment but you will find all the latest movie releases at the Cinepax on the Tana Water front with French subtitles and Institut Français Madagascar hosts excellent theatre events, dance recitals and concerts as well as exhibitions.  Be sure to check out their website when planning a visit.

Antananarivo City Tips & Hints

  • Temperatures remain high for most of the year with lows of around 23 degrees Celsius. Pack a light rain jacket and sweater as well as mosquito repellant.
  • Avoid walking the streets alone at night after 20h30.
  • Be careful of pickpockets everywhere and never wave your cash around.
  • The best way to get around is by taxi but arrange this with your hotel or a full time guide which can be arranged with either the hotel or a local travel agent. Agree on a fee prior to engaging in the service.
  • Be sure to check the vaccinations required before travelling. You may be required to take a course of Typhoid and/or Malaria medication before departure.
  • Drink only unopened bottled water.
  • Very important: Ensure that you have an adequate amount of cash in local currency but be exchange this back to your own preferred currency before departing as you will not be able to change it anywhere outside of Madagascar.
  • Good buys are chocolate, the locally made chocolate is some of the best I’ve tasted and comes in a variety of flavours. Also T-shirts and local curios and crafts.
  • For more travel information you can visit the Madagascar ministry of Tourism Here

This intriguing country that is wrapped in so much mystery and wonder, will leave you enthralled and sure to be going back to further explore and uncover her hidden secrets.

NOTE: PLEASE CONSULT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISORY FOR COVID REGULATIONS WITH REGARD TO TRAVELLING TO MADAGASCAR

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