Of all the places I have been blessed to see, nothing prepared me for the anarchic pulse of Cairo. I remember thinking when we were just leaving the airport how bland everything looked in its myriad shades of beige, blending in perfectly with the powdery grains of desert sand. An ancient land dating back to 2000 BC, my mind raced with thoughts and images of extravagant royal courts, unrelenting kings and their omnipotent priests, pyramids, mummies and all the mysteries surrounding this phantasmagorical country. I couldn’t wait to explore!
I certainly didn’t expect to see what I saw; the chaotic rhythm of cars stretching for miles without the sight of traffic lights and yet, despite the boisterous sounds of their honking horns, everyone was just calmly getting on with their day-to-day lives. Tall buildings and the bustling of people everywhere…and then…catching my first glimpse of The Nile River – the actual River that carried baby Moses along to his palace home for some time, the actual River that was and still is the life source of many a nation in North-East Africa. I was in awe of my surroundings to say the least.
Although Cairo has always been a bucket list destination for me, my first visit was actually only a three day layover whilst en route to Italy. Little did I realise how madly I would fall in love with this wondrous city and its people and from it, would form lifelong friendships.
So if you have limited time, here are some of the best things to do with only three days to spare:
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
- THE GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM
Many who visit Egypt have a keen interest in its history and its youngest Pharaoh, King Tutankhamun and if you’re anything like me, more of an obsession with everything that is Ancient Egyptian. So head out early to the museum and honestly, like many museums, there is always such an overload of artefacts that I find it exhausting just thinking about traipsing those halls. So do a little homework before and list the most important things that you would like to see. Of course, that should include the Tutankhamun Galleries and the Royal Mummies and Egyptian Jewellery collections.
- THE PYRAMIDS OF GIZA & THE SPHINX
You can easily combine the Egyptian Museum and Pyramids of Giza tours in one day with a little room left for additional sights as well as camel ride around the pyramids. I know, yes, a typically touristy thing to do, but hey, why not? It costs around USD 15 but your guide will negotiate a price for you to settle on. It’s a short ride by camel or bus to Panorama Point, which is flooded by tourists. There is nothing special about this point. It’s merely just where everyone gathers to get that all important social media shot of the Pyramids.
These megalithic structures are indeed breathtaking and there are even a few of the lesser known tombs that are open to explore and although empty, they are still awe-inspiring. It is mind blowing just standing in front of this magnificent structure knowing that it is more than 5 000 years old! If you are opting to go inside the Great Pyramid, note that no cameras or video equipment are allowed, however, this does not include smartphones.
- MEMPHIS AND SAQQARA
Saqqara could also be combined with the Giza tour. It is a mere 15 minutes from the centre of Cairo and the place where the first ever pyramid was built and is around 100 years older than the Pyramids of Giza. The Step Pyramid of Djoser stands at 62m in height and is surrounded by 10m high limestone columns with 13 false doors. I was truly awestruck at this incredible burial ground with smaller temples in the surrounds which was to guide the Pharaoh into the afterlife. Just imagine what it would feel like if we could only just catch a glimpse of life during those times!! Memphis used to be the old capital of Cairo and even though there is not much left to see since the palaces were looted and the city abandoned and stripped of its antiquities, the main reason to visit is to see the colossal statue of Rameses II. His statue is laid horizontally in the open-air museum which actually puts into perspective its gigantic size and perfectly chiselled form. Truly a magnificent sight to behold.
- THE CAIRO CITADEL
The Citadel sits majestically at the top of a hill overlooking the city and houses both the National Military Museum of Egypt as well as the Muhammad Ali Mosque(no, not the boxer and definitely no relation) often referred to as the Alabaster Mosque. The view from the Citadel is spectacular and so is the architecture of the mosque.
- COPTIC CAIRO
Cairo is so often overlooked as being only a Muslim country and although the dominant religion is Islam, it has the most fascinating history involving Christianity. This is visible in its many splendid churches. The most famous and also the oldest one, The Hanging Church was built during the 7th century around 690AD and is so named because it is located above an ancient Roman fortress gate house. My favourite was undeniably the Cave Churches of the Zabbaleen. This was an experience like no other. Zabbaleen translates to “garbage people” and so called because these cave churches lies in the midst of a garbage dump. The area or village is called Mokattam Village and again, it is recommended that you go only with a tour guide. It is located about 20-30 minutes outside of the city centre and you will definitely know when you’ve reached it. The stench gives it all away but I assure you, it is absolutely worth it! The largest of the cave churches called St. Simon the Tanner can accommodate up to 20 000 people in its amphitheatre which has amazing acoustics. On the walls are carvings of Christ and also murals depicting the life of St. Simon.
- KHAN EL-KHALILI BAZAAR/MARKET
Quite possibly one of my favourite places to be, the Khan El-Khalili market is located in the old part of Cairo city which is the Islamic centre and is abuzz with activity, mosques, restaurants and shops selling anything and everything. Great buys are of course the many thousands of souvenirs, kaftans, pretty scarves and shawls and the fragrant scents of perfumed oils from the traditional sandalwood to the more modern and alcohol free concentrated likes of designer fashion houses. Be sure to bargain for what you want but at the same time, do so respectfully.
FOOD AND NIGHTLIFE
Although Cairo is not famous for cinemas and theatres, it does have the most enjoyable nightlife. The streets are alive until all hours. There are literally hundreds of restaurants and street cafes all around. I loved hanging out in the Zamalek area on Gezira island. It is known for its cosmopolitan and culture and cuisine and of course, for the ever popular Zamalek Football Club. A must see is La Pacha 1901, a turn-of-the-century steamboat converted into nine restaurants serving international fare and for the best Asian food in Africa, try L’Asiatique which was voted the best in Egypt and third best in all of Africa. Egyptian cuisine is truly delicious. Keeping in line with the traditional Arab tastes, foods are light and healthy with an emphasis on Mediterranean and Lebanese using spices like cumin, paprika and saffron and lots of olive oil, garlic and chickpeas. Be sure to try the traditional dishes of Mulukhiyah – a green soup made from mallow leaves. Not for every palate but worth the try.
A must do as well is a Nile River Cruise. I love doing these type of cruises at night because there is something magical about being on a boat, having dinner with loved ones and just soaking up the sights, sounds and lights that the daylight simply fails to conjure.
Zamalek is also where partygoers to go rid themselves of the daily stresses of life. There are a number of bars and clubs to choose from but most popular are Pub 28, a cosy bar which serves hearty food and mezes and has a good mix of locals and foreigners. The other is L’Aubergine, which serves mostly vegetarian dishes (as its name suggests) but has a lively bar with a DJ that attracts mostly young and wealthy students.
ACCOMMODATION
There are plenty of hotels in Cairo but if you prefer the standard comfort of a well known brand such as the Marriot Hotels, Hilton and Four Seasons, etc, stick to what you know and like although there are some very impressive local boutique hotels that are simply fabulous such as the Tolip hotels. I am quite particular when it comes to a choice in hotels and thus I stayed with what I knew after making the dire mistake of choosing a local 4-star chain hotel (no longer in existence) that was certainly not what it portrayed to be in its pictures and description, resulting in us checking out and checking in to the luxurious Sofitel Cairo Nile El Gezira boasting an infinity pool and 7 restaurants ranging from Egyptian to Asian and European cuisine. The hotel offers the ultimate in luxury from its plush pillows to its spa and fitness centre and even a hammam. I almost did not want to leave to go touring. The Sofitel is located in the city centre and close to Cairo Tower which is one of the focal points of the city centre, as well as the Opera House and Egyptian Museum.
TIPS:
- Cairo is not an easy city to navigate especially if you are visiting for the first time. My advice is that you hire a tour guide to take around. The tour guides are extremely knowledgeable and it’s always great having someone to speak the local language and interpret for you but also to make sure that you don’t get duped and taken advantage of because, believe me, you will most certainly be if you are alone.
- Ensure that you change currency to Egytpian Pounds on arrival.
- Anytime of the year is a good time to travel to Cairo (after restrictions are lifted naturally). Summers can be really hot and sticky and winters are absolutely wonderful – cool and pleasant.
- By pre-booking a guide and arranging your itinerary, tickets can be bought in advance and therefore no time is wasted waiting in long queues in the blistering heat of the midday sun. But even so, your hotel can easily arrange and recommend a good tour company as well.
- Always bargain, but be very respectful when doing so.
- Dress appropriately when going to churches and mosques. It’s a good idea to carry a shawl/scarf with you, shoulders covered and preferably no shorts or revealing clothing at religious places.
Cairo will forever remain one of my most treasured memories and even though I have been back there several times, each time brings with it new adventures, new things to discover and a deeper love for its people and culture that will take me back time and again.