What if I told you that you could taste the most exotic Indian spices, buy the most colourful Indian garments and crafts, jewellery and get an authentic Indian experience coupled with both western, Zulu and Xhosa culture AND at the same time, enjoy lazing on a pristine beach listening to the lapping waves of the Indian Ocean, all within minutes from each other? That, my fellow globetrotters, is exactly what you will find in Durban, South Africa.
This bustling city of ethnic diversity located on the east coast in the KwaZulu Natal region, is South Africa’s third largest city and boasts the tenth largest port in the world. It is also home to the largest Indian population outside of India. Boundaried by the Indian Ocean and the majestic Drakensberg Mountains, Durban makes for the perfect holiday spot, ticking off just about everything on your wish list.
Driving through the city and its suburbs, the architecture echoes its eclectic history and culture from colonial Victorian to Hindu temples and Muslim Mosques. A perfect blend of old and new.
The city is pretty much accessible from almost everywhere as it is also a major gateway to Africa. The King Shaka International Airport is a hub for carriers such as British Airways, Emirates, Air Mauritius, Qatar Airways and Turkish Airlines among others. The best way to get around the city if you’re not planning on hiring a car, is by taxi, but again, being South Africa, there are many options for taxis, from the local shared taxis to the many private metered taxis. Uber has taken over predominantly in the last few years. I must admit, using Uber is also much less stressful when you don’t know where you’re going. The local taxis do not have GPS and rely on guessing which can end up costing you quite a bit and frustrate you quite a lot more.
Among the many Tourist Attractions, make a point of taking a tour of the city centre which was discovered by Vasco da Gama in 1497 but only really began to flourish in 1824. The town adopted its name from Sir Benjamin D’Urban , Governor of the Cape Colony in 1835. Durban City Hall, which stands tall and proud in its Neo-Baroque style was finished in 1910 and designed by architect Stanley Hudson. It’s iconic magnificence towers over the city centre and exudes splendour in every form. Within its grand walls there is much to see, among others, the natural Science Museum which houses an actual Egyptian Mummy and a dodo skeleton, the municipal chambers, auditorium and in keeping up with the times, the Durban Art Gallery showcasing many pieces of European but more intriguing, the African art works.
One of my favourite stops is always the Victoria Street Market, Durban’s oldest market and spice emporium extraordinaire. With over 200 stores your eyes will feast upon the most fragrant of spices wafting through the air and colours from every spectrum of the rainbow. Not only can you purchase exquisite bejewelled garments, but also authentic Indian 24 and more karat gold jewellery and in keeping with true South African heritage, you can also find plenty of African artefacts, clothing and oh, so much more! The market is surrounded by historical buildings such as the Emmanuel Cathedral, the Juma Masjid Mosque and the Ghandi Library, all of which have played significant roles in the history and shaping of our country and heritage. The trading hours are from Monday to Sunday, however, the market does close early on weekends. Please check the website for updated information. https://www.victoriastreetmarket.co.za/
Durban Harbour is one of the busiest ports in Africa and the bay retains its original shape from the time it was discovered by Vasco Da Gama. The bay is surrounded by a conservation area of mangrove swamps which typically add to its natural beauty and charm. There are ferries and boat rides around the bay which is an ideal way to see the coastline.
Durban Beachfront, also called the Golden Mile is the most popular from all of the KZN beaches and is often compared to Miami Beach. Its long sandy coast is lined with hotels and apartments from backpackers to luxury properties. My favourite is the Southern Sun Elangeni and Maharani Hotel and even though it is rated a 4-star, the service, decor and food certainly puts it right up there with 5-star quality. It is a family friendly hotel with rooms overlooking the ocean and energetic and athletic lifestyle on the beachfront.
For those whose budget does not allow for much stretching, the recently renovated Blue Waters Hotel offers stunning sea views and even more so from its dining restaurant, is a perfect choice. The 3-star Onomo Hotel is also good value for money with clean and modern designs.
Whether you’re visiting as a family with kids or just on a romantic trip for two, you simply cannot miss out on Ushaka Marine World, a 16-hectare water park that is sure to bring out the child in you! Make a day of it as there is plenty to do in the park with its interactive Aquarium, the dolphin, penguin and seal shows. The Wet n Wild Park caters for both the adventurous and the adventurous at heart (wink wink). The Sea Animals Encounter Island affords you the incredible opportunity to literally swim with the fishes (in a non threatening way of course). If you’re daring enough, why not opt for the Shark Dive or Ray Feed. Alternatively, meet a dolphin, walk the ocean or simply just feed the fishes. Whatever your choice, the experience is sure to leave you feeling exhilarated! https://ushakamarineworld.co.za/
Another popular and more upmarket beachfront is the Umhlanga Beach, situated roughly about 20 minutes drive (during off peak traffic) from Durban city centre. Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, Umhlanga is bedecked with upmarket restaurants and hotels. Along this 200km coastline of prestine beach, you will find The Oyster Box Hotel, one of the most luxurious hotels in South Africa and a part of the Red Carnation Hotel Collection. Step back in time to Colonial Britain which will leave you breathless at its old world charm and grandeur, but with all the modern day comforts and more and bask in the glory of a bygone era. The hotel has specially curated experiences for its guests, among them a spice masterclass and a high tea fit for royalty. This stupendous property was built in 1869, is also custodian to the Umhlanga Lighthouse which was built later in 1954. The Lighthouse today stands at 21 meters above the beach and still serves as a beacon in the night for ships waiting to anchor.
The Umhlanga coastline stretches up north toward the Isimangaliso Wetland Park, a UNESCO World Hertiage site. Home to a wealth of bird and animal life, it includes South Africa’s largest hippo population and over 500 species of birds. https://isimangaliso.com/
In my experience, Durban has by far the most delicious and delectable food and restaurants. You are truly spoilt for choice especially when it comes to fusion foods. The most important thing to remember is, that when in Durban, you simply and absolutely cannot leave without trying its most famous invention – the Bunny Chow. Nothing to do at all with the cute, furry animal, the Bunny Chow is a half or quarter loaf of white bread which has been hollowed out in the centre and filled with the most fragrant of curries, usually a deep red mutton and potato curry and served with a side condiment of either tomato and onion salsa or a carrot and green chilli salad. I salivate just thinking about it right now. Jeera Restaurant, situated inside the Suncoast Towers on 20 Battery Beach Road, Durban, is renowned for their Mutton Bunny and also among the finest Indian Cuisine in Durban. Be sure to make an appointment.
There are also plenty of Bars and Clubs but be sure to stay clear of the dingy areas which you can clearly tell apart from the rest. A good place to be if you want to party the night away is Tiger Tiger, one of the largest nightclubs in Durban with great music and even better drinks. It’s situated in a prime spot close the famous Moses Mabhida Stadium. Address: 67 Isaiah Ntshangase Road, Durban.
Ultra Bar’s multi-level themed floors are sure to satisfy your every taste in music. Its lavish décor and impressive architecture make it one of the go-to hotspots in Durban. Address: 178 Stamford Hill Road, Morningside.
If it’s Shopping and Entertainment you’re after, there is no better mall than the Gateway Theatre of Shopping in Umhlanga. With over 400 stores and almost 100 eateries, it is no wonder that it is one of the largest malls in the Southern Hemisphere. Here, you can shop to your heart’s content, from the ultimate in luxury to the daily necessities.
The mall is also home to an 18 cinema complex, a family funfair, bowling, action karting as well as an IMAX theatre. What more could one ask for? Be prepared for some serious walking.
CITY TIPS & HINTS:
- Stay clear from the city centre at night as well as the side streets on the beachfront. It tends to get rowdy and dangerous at times.
- Always keep your personal belongings safe with you. As is the case all over the world, there are pickpockets here as well.
- A Hop-on-Hop-Off tour is a great way to get to see the city and learn about its history. This can be arranged with your hotel or travel agent.
- Renting a car is one of the best options if you feel comfortable enough to navigate the roads. As in England, South Africans drive on the left side of the road. Roads are in good condition and it is easier to get around instead of having to wait for an Uber each time you have to go out.
- Pack sunscreen and light cool clothing with one sweater or light jacketptelH as Durban is hot and humid in the summer and still warm and humid in winter too, with highs of around 17°C in winter.
Durban makes for a completely affordable holiday and the experience is like none other. Its people are friendly and welcoming, its food and accommodation, delicious and inviting. There is nothing more that I could ask for from an ideal vacation except to be able to return time and again to savour each moment over or even better, to be able to slow down the clock so that the days are longer and the moments sweeter…