By Nadira Adam
Not just another island, Réunion is also unlike any of its neighbours sharing the warm and inviting tropical waters of the Indian Ocean. Located off the east coast of Africa, between Madagascar and Mauritius, Réunion belongs to the territory of France and is the longest “domestic” flight in France.
Just a mere 45 minutes flight from Mauritius and four hours from Johannesburg, Réunion is the perfect weekend getaway (for Mauritians) and a worthwhile alternative to choosing an island destination. Personally, I always feel that “killing two birds with one stone” is an ideal way to get to travel and see as many places as possible if time and funds allow.
The flight, despite it being awfully short (I say “awfully” because I quite rather enjoy long trips), is filled with awe and stupefaction. As soon as the island comes into view, the contrasts of colours and landscape alike are just mesmerizing. From the sapphire heavens intertwined with the cotton candy-like clouds flitting randomly past your window like a ghost in the wind to the hues of greens and browns of the overgrown thickets and the fertile manicured plantations all dotted with the colourful roofs of the many rainbow-painted homes. This is truly an amalgamation of man and nature.
My favourite thing about visiting the islands is that each one of them is so unique in its attributes, its landscapes, and its beauty. But the one thing across all of them is the incredible warmth and friendliness of its people. The island’s 700 000 inhabitants combine Chinese, Indian, French and African cultures with French and Creole being the dominant languages. I often think of and say that our world should look to the islands for guidance and inspiration so that we may all adopt the tranquil harmony that is so prevalent among most island life. Seventy-five per cent of the population are Roman Catholic but live peacefully with its practising Muslim, Hindu and Buddhist beliefs. In fact, there has been no political unrest for nearly two hundred years!!
Despite its minimal stature in size, (and I always maintain that “dynamite comes in small packages”), there is plenty to keep you entertained in Réunion. There are three different craters or calderas, each with its own unique climate and landscape and home to island people. Cilaos is a mountainous region with a Mediterranean climate, while the picturesque Salazie is rainy and wet but with magnificent cascading waterfalls and rainforests. The third, Mafate, is a mixture of the two with a rugged terrain that is accessible by air or foot only. Salazie is usually most people’s first stop since it is closer to Saint-Denis and since your flight arrives just outside Saint-Denis, it makes sense to head this way if you’re visiting for the first time.
Saint-Denis is situated in the northern part and is the administrative capital of Réunion. Typical of French culture, you will be pleasantly surprised at finding boulangeries sprinkled between the buildings and museums with the aromas of crisp French loaves and mouth-watering pastries wafting through the air. The infrastructure is the best from all of the islands and would even put Hawaii to shame especially since it is home to France’s most expensive road, which is being constructed between Saint-Denis and the port, costing more than $2.4 billion. Be sure to also check out The Old City Hall, The Grand Marche, the Victory Column with a backdrop of the ocean to die for, Jardin de l’Etat (public gardens that include a natural history museum) and La Roche Écrite located about 13 kilometres south of the city and is a summit overlooking Saint-Denis, with impressive views over the city.
Cilaos is the crater that boasts some of the most extraordinary views but its most iconic sight is the Piton des Neiges, a mountainous peak that towers more than 3000 meters over the town. Cilaos is ideal for hiking and action sports and activities. And the perfect end to a fun-filled day of vigorous exertion is to try the lentil dishes and old-style rum made from sugar cane which is synonymous with Cilaos.
Salazie is covered in a carpet of lush green vegetation and like Cilaos, is a haven for a plethora of outdoor adventures and activities such as trout fishing, canyoning through Trou Blanc, ziplining and abseiling. A few kilometres before reaching Hell-Bourg is the absolute apple of my eye, Voille de la Mariee (Bridal Falls). The legend goes that a gardener named Henrio fell madly in love with his employer’s daughter, Amanda, who loved him in return. When Amanda’s father discovered the romance, he forbade them from being together. They decided to elope, but their nuptials were intercepted by her father. In trying to flee from him, Amanda slipped and fell over the cliff snagging her veil on the mountainside during her fall. When her father witnessed what had happened, he wailed for her loss and thus was born the name of the cascading waterfalls.
Another unforgettable must-do is a tour up to the active volcano of Piton de la Fournaise on the eastern side of the island. With more than 150 recorded eruptions, it is one of the most active volcanoes on earth. Even though you cannot get too close, the best way to catch a glimpse of some smoke (if you’re lucky enough), is to trek up the volcano, however, with the recent eruption, hikes have been somewhat restricted.
PLACES TO STAY
Surprisingly, Réunion does not have any chain resorts except for the popular Mauritian chain, Lux and as such, there is only one five-star resort on the island, the Lux Saint Gilles. There are plenty of apartments and bed-and-breakfasts that range in price to suit any budget.
FOOD AND ENTERTAINMENT
With such flourishing vegetation, it is no doubt that the food on the island is just as ambrosial. With the many diverse cultures, you are sure to be spoilt for choice. Some of the specialities are gratins (a dish that is browned at the top)– and usually, a pumpkin gratin called “chouchou” (a French term also used to show affection to someone close to you). Another speciality and a main is “Cari” (which does not refer to curry). It is a stewed dish of meat and often accompanied by dumplings. When it comes to drinks, Réunion is famous for its rums distilled from sugar cane juice and mixed into a number of concoctions such as Daiquiris and punches. A memorable dining experience can be found at the Auberge du Volcans where you can dine on sumptuous delicacies such as palm hearts and succulent and tender goat meat.
The night brings with it just as much entertainment as the day affords adventures. There are plenty of restaurants, bars and theatres. Live music is thoroughly enjoyed by the island people and nightclubs are scattered throughout. One of the most popular hangouts is Ô Bar in St. Denis. This trendy bar offers drinks and food from morning to evenings and turns into a tasteful party venue until after midnight.
SHOPPING
The island’s main shopping district is found in St. Denis at the intersection of Rue du Maréchal-Leclerc and Rue de Paris. But be sure to visit the Saint-Paul market on Fridays and Saturdays located on the waterfront where you will stumble upon the most beautiful handcrafted items and other local treasures that are authentic to the heritage and culture of Réunion.
INTERESTING FACTS
- Réunion is home to some of the heaviest rainstorms on earth. So best pack a raincoat or two along with some lightweight sweaters.
- It is the most dangerous place in the world for shark attacks. Adhere to the signs and regulations on the beaches.
- Hell-Bourg located in Salazie is home to the prettiest village in France.
- The Piton des Neiges is the highest peak in the Indian Ocean
This unique little island has reaffirmed to me that not everything in the world needs to be over-the-top in architecture and that for all the wonders that man has achieved, we will never come close to what God has created. I am indeed humbled and in awe.