By Nadira Adam
It’s crazy how we tend to favour cities and destinations outside of our own countries and end up knowing so little about our native lands. In many ways national lockdowns have forced people to explore their own surroundings and come to appreciate their own backyards much more.
Such is the case with me. Before the pandemic, every chance I got to leave the country, I would. But now, the frustration of being cooped up at home with very little movement has had me feeling so anxious and bursting to travel, that anywhere was a welcomed respite as soon as we were given the all clear to travel within our own country.
Every country has its artistic quarters. France has Montmartre, Italy has Florence, and South Africa has Grahamstown. I don’t think that I would ever have discovered the treasures I did had it not been for lockdown which took me on a journey of notable discovery to this city in the Eastern Cape. Nestled between Port Alfred and Port Elizabeth, Grahamstown has always been famous for the arts since it plays host to not only the country’s major and longest running arts festival, the National Arts Festival, but it is also the largest arts festival on the African continent and the world’s largest performing arts festival and held every year in June/July.
Grahamstown is also home to Rhodes University which boasts the best undergraduate pass and graduation rates in South Africa. But what blew me away was the sheer grace and charm of this hamlet. Somewhat forgotten by way of modernisation in its architecture and still remnant of the Colonial and Victorian styles amalgamating a little bit of Gothic here and there especially visible in the Cathedral of St Michael and St George whose original building started in 1824 and only completed in 1892. This Anglican cathedral with its breathtaking stained glass windows is not only a symbol of history but also of incredible beauty, love and hope for all who come to pay tribute and seek solace within its sanctum.
And since I was on this expedition of discovery, I wanted to learn as much as I could of this fascinating place. My next stop was the commanding presence of the colonial Rhodes University which was established in 1904 and named after Cecil John Rhodes through a grant from the Rhodes Trust. At the top of the hill stands the 1820 Settlers National Monument, a huge square structure that was first opened in 1974 but was rebuilt close to its original structure in 1994 after being destroyed in a fire. It is a memorial in commemoration to the English settlers who arrived on our continent all those many years ago. The History Museum located in Somerset Street tells the story of the settlers but now also incorporates the history of the people who have lived and those who continue to live in the Eastern Cape.
One of my favourite sites is the 18th century military prison called Provost Prison which was designed to constantly monitor its prisoners from both the yard as well as the prison cells. It you’re gallant enough, you can rent out a cell as accommodation during the National Arts Festival. Interestingly, the Old Gaol in the town’s centre dating back to 1823 was where public hangings were conducted and thereafter, a black flag was hung outside to indicate that the death sentence had been carried out.
I also quite enjoyed the Observatory Museum, a multi-storied building with a number of exhibits but one in particular that caught my attention is the story of the Eureka, the first authenticated diamond in South Africa dating back to 1867 and the more remarkable contraptions in the Meridian Room which features the astronomical time where Grahamstown mean time could be calculated. We spent a wonderfully pleasant morning strolling down High Street stopping to read the plaques at all the historical buildings. This former Frontier town has an incredible history. Don’t miss out on this delightful opportunity.
When it comes to nightlife, you can expect any student community to be buzzing with excitement and activity. Surprisingly, there is a wonderful mix for those who want a quiet and relaxing outing as opposed to those wanting to pub crawl and club hop. The Rat and Parrot Bar and Grill is noisy but the food is great and loved by both visitors and the locals. The beer and wine flows and their steaks and pizzas are superb!
The Vic Bar which I was told used to be the former student hangout is now a much quieter establishment and frequented by former students. It has great food coupled with a cosy ambience and is located in the Hotel Victoria Mews.
Do stop by at Haricots Deli & Bistro for scrumptious artisanal breads and a variety of deliciously prepared meals including vegan options.
Now, when it comes to accommodation, I confess, I can be a real fusspot and almost always choose hotels over any other type. But this time round, we opted to stay in a self-catering guesthouse called Mimosa, located in the heart of Grahamstown and with easy access to the rest of the town. The Victorian-styled rooms are exquisitely decorated, bright and airy and the grounds of the guesthouse are engulfed by tranquil, lush vegetation that is beautifully manicured. I often find myself reminiscing about its serenity and dreaming of one day having my own little cottage in just such a setting, cuddled up on the veranda with a Henry James novel in hand. Ahhh yes, a perfect retirement.
TIPS:
- Grahamstown is not a place you will visit for shopping. Yes, there are malls and plenty of shops, both modern and vintage, but you will find yourself rather immersed in its charming history and its graceful buildings.
- It’s best to hire a car to get around as taxis are not plentiful as in the major cities.
- The town has a relaxed and leisurely pace so expect things to take a little longer when it comes to requesting services in restaurants especially. After all, you certainly can’t rush something when it’s made with love.
- There are some great game reserves in the area as well and this stopover can be ideal whilst en-route to one of them such as the luxury safari lodges of Shamwari, Kwandwe, Pumba and Bucklands Private Game Reserves.
The surrounding towns and area outside the city makes for the ideal family getaway where you can enjoy a world of outdoor activity and also that much needed Vitamin Sea 😉 But one thing is certain, this once small military village has not only grown in size but also in the hearts of those who visit it. It has completely and utterly bewitched me!
Happy planning!!